When it comes to lingerie, thin straps are all the rage — they’re more comfortable and easier to hide under dresses and tops. However, they are not without their downsides, such as causing red marks and dig-ins on the underarm and shoulder areas. This is especially true for women with smaller busts, who may find that they need to adjust their bras frequently to minimize this discomfort.
A good bra fit is key to avoiding these issues, but it’s not always easy to figure out what’s going wrong. If the straps are digging into your skin and making indentations, they’re probably too tight. You should be able to fit at least one finger between the band and your skin, but if you can’t do this, it’s time for a new bra.
Another problem is spillage, which occurs when the bottom edge of the cup — whether it’s wired or an ordinary seam — is not following the breast. This can be caused by a lack of lift and can easily be corrected by going up in cup size.
The bridge, or gore, is the point where the two cups meet and should sit flat against your sternum. If it’s too loose, it might slide up over the nipple and can be uncomfortable. If it’s too high, it will cause the breasts to sit too far out in the front of the cup. It’s usually possible to fix this by going down in the band and up in the cup, or trying a plunge or a soft bralette style with a narrower center front.
The best way to determine your bra size is by measuring yourself with a tape measure, but if you don’t have one of these handy, try using a piece of string or ribbon and wrap it around your torso directly under the bust where your band would sit (it’s helpful to wear a fitted t-shirt for this step). If you can comfortably fit a finger underneath the measurement, that’s your band size. If you’re on the cusp of a traditional bra size, add a half inch to the number and round up. You’ll also want to consider the shape of your nipples, as they will impact your cup size. For example, if your nipples are very pointed, you might need to go up in the band size and down in the cup. thin strap bra